Laser hair removal is a process that helps to reduce hair growth and increase the manageability of excess hair in the long-term. Laser energy is used to selectively target and disrupt hair follicles whilst leaving the skin unaffected. It has been used since the 1990Ãs for this reason, and can help reduce unwanted hair that is usually removed by plucking, shaving or waxing, and make hair management an easier task.
How does it work?
Laser hair removal works by using a laser or light source to target and selectively heat the hair follicle. The laser is attracted to the melanin in the hair follicle where it is converted to heat energy that can destroy the stem cell in the hair follicle and prevent its future growth. The skin also takes up part of the laser energy, but it has the ability to lose heat quicker than the hair follicle, and is left intact. Hair also has a larger amount of melanin than skin, therefore it attracts the laser energy more readily than skin. Therefore, as a rule, people with darker hair and lighter skin are easier to treat as there is a greater differential between the amount of melanin in the skin and hair. The hair follicle also dissipates heat slower than the skin, and therefore tends to heat more than the skin with laser treatments.
Laser hair removal works best on the hairs that are in their ëanagenà or active growth phase.
The laser head is placed on the skin, and systematically fired over the areas to be treated. A small 'prick' is felt with each laser shot, and this discomfort is usually tolerated well. We also use a cooler to reduce the heat and discomfort of the laser on the skin, and this can be built into the laser head, or be a separate cooling unit that blows cold air onto the skin.
How many treatments do I need and how often?
Generally, 3 to 8 sessions are required at 4 to 8 weekly intervals (depending on the area treated) in order to achieve a 60 to 80% reduction in hair growth. The reason why 3 to 8 treatments are required is that laser hair removal works best on the hairs that are in their ëanagenà or active growth phase. Therefore, in order to reduce the amount of hair growth, multiple treatments are required to capture more hair follicles in their anagen phase of growth. The interval between each session is decreased in areas such as the face which has a shorter hair cycle.
The permanence of laser hair removal has always been a debatable topic. In many cases, hair reduction can be achieved for a significant period of time, sometimes years. Although laser hair removal is able to permanently remove existing hairs, this does not prevent the growth of new hairs - this is the case with any laser or IPL system used. Instead laser hair removal allows for easier management of hair, decreasing the need for plucking, waxing, and shaving of hairs.
Therefore, we do recommend periodic re-treatment even after the initial set of sessions.
What is the difference between the lasers/IPL for hair removal?
IPL or intense pulsed light is the most common machine used for hair removal. It is technically not a laser as it emits a broad-band of light frequencies rather than a single wavelength. IPL systems are effective for hair removal, but as there are a broad-band of light frequencies emitted, it tends to be less selectively attracted to the hair follicle in relation to the skin. Therefore, the probability of blistering and skin pigmentation problems after treatment is higher than some other laser systems. True lasers only emit one single frequency at a time, which allows them to target a particular hair type on a particular skin type. This means that, if you have chosen the correct laser and wavelength, you will have a safer and more effective result for your skin type and hair type. IPL is akin to a pocket knife, with lots of different functions, but none that it truly does well, and lasers are akin to a set of chef knives, each one made for an individual purpose and is highly specialised to that task.
Video: Dr. Natasha Moscato demonstrates laser hair removal with the 4 different lasers used at The Victorian Cosmetic Institute
What type of lasers are used at The Victorian Cosmetic Institute?
At The Victorian Cosmetic Institute, we utilise 4 different lasers to reduce hair. This allows us to choose the best laser to suit your hair type (colour and thickness), and skin type (light or dark). These are the Gemini laser (1064nm), Medlite laser (1064nm), the Apogee laser (1064nm/755nm) and the Sinon ruby laser (694nm).
For olive to dark skin with coarse hair we use the 1064nm wavelength on the Gemini laser or Apogee laser
The Gemini Laser and Apogee lasers have a wavelength of 1064 nm (Nd:YAG) that is not attracted much to the melanin in skin, and is the safest and most effective laser for people with darker or olive skin types, including Asian, European, Mediterranean, Indian, African, and other darker skin types. The Gemini Laser has contact cooling (it fires the laser through a chilled window) which allows the skin to be cooled during treatment and this reduces the likelihood of skin damage. The Apogee laser cools the skin with a Zimmer cooler (a machine that blows very cool air onto the skin). Cooling the skin allows for safer treatment with the laser - especially for darker skins. Having a variable spot sizes, these two lasers can treat larger areas like the back, chest and legs, or finer areas like the eyebrows for long-lasting eyebrow shaping.
For olive to dark skin with very fine to fine hair we use the 1064nm wavelength (q-switched) on the Medlite laser
Another laser that is used at The Victorian Cosmetic Institute for the removal of hair is the q-switched Medlite laser. This also has a wavelength of 1064nm, but has very short pulses that literally shatter the hair follicule instead of heating it. This is particularly useful for very thin hairs that the Gemini laser/Apogee laser may not be attracted to. There are no clinical studies showing long term hair reduction beyond 6 months with this machine, however, anecdotal evidence shows patients are generally happy with the results.
For fair to olive skins with fine to coarse hair we use the 755nm wavelength on the Apogee laser
The 755nm wavelength on the Apogee laser - also known as the alexandrite (alex) laser, is an intermediate wavelength that can treat most skin types, except for dark, and works particularly well on hair of any thickness. This wavelength is a very versatile wavelength and will be suitable for the majority of patients. The exceptions are those with dark skin (best to use 1064nm on dark skin) or very fine hair (best to use 694nm).
For fair skins only with very fine to coarse hair we use the 694nm wavelength on the Ruby laser
The Sinon Ruby laser is another laser used at The Victorian Cosmetic Institute. Ruby lasers were the first lasers used to permanently reduce hair growth, and there are numerous clinical studies showing its effectiveness. Having a single wavelength of 694nm it is used primarily for fairer skin types and works well on both very thin to thick hair. The wavelength at 694nm is attracted more to the melanin in skin, so it must be used in caution or avoided in people with olive/darker skins. Generally speaking, the ruby is mostly used for very fine hairs on fair skin when the other lasers have been unable to remove these fine hairs. The ruby laser is not used commonly as it does have the greatest risk of damaging the skin out of all the lasers, but is the best one for permanent reduction of thin hairs.
figure: graph of different lasers used for different hair and skin types.
Am I a suitable candidate for laser hair removal?
Most people are able to have laser hair removal. Unsuitable candidates include those who are currently pregnant (breast-feeding does not preclude you from treatment), patients prone to skin discolouration or keloid scarring, and patients who want grey, white, red, or very fine hairs removed (as these hair colours do not work).
Patients who have recently taken Roaccutane for acne need to wait at least 6 months after finishing their course of treatment to commence laser hair removal.
Can I use the laser to treat hairs on my face and neck?
Lasers can be used for the treatment of pseudofolliculitis barbae, or ingrown hairs in the face and neck. This can be a problem that is extremely aggravating on the skin, causing acne and marks on the skin, whilst also making it difficult to shave.
Furthermore, lasers can be used for unwanted hair growth on the face and neck in females. This is a very distressing problem for many females, and can be difficult to manage. Often, there is a hormonal cause for this. It may be due to polycystic ovarian syndrome for example. Also, as you get older, the balance between the male and female hormones becomes unbalanced, and this can lead to facial or neck hair growth. Laser hair removal can be used to help manage this problem, and reduce the frequency for other forms of hair removal. It needs to be performed every 4 weeks on the face and neck.
For those with excessive facial hairs, our doctors may decide to perform some blood tests to determine if you have any hormonal imbalances or underlying causes for the excessive facial hair. This may also be applicable to sudden onset of excessive hair growth in other areas that usually don't grow hair.
Adjunctive treatments to help reduce hair growth can be used in conjunction with laser hair removal. Vaniqa is a cream with the ingredient eflornithine hydrochloride. It blocks an enzyme which is required for hair growth. In some cases, our doctors will prescribe versions of the contraceptive pill that help to reduce the hormonal influence on hair growth or spironolactone, another anti-hormonal medication.
What do I need to do before treatment?
Hair should not be plucked or waxed at least 6 weeks before treatment.
The principle behind this is to leave just the follicle of the hair intact. Plucking/waxing will remove the follicle, whereas shaving will not
You will need to shave the area to be treated the day before or the morning of the procedure.
Do not tan the area to be treated if possible. This means avoidance of solariums, direct sun exposure, spray tans, and use of sunscreen daily on the areas to be treated.
Do not apply cosmetics or creams to the treatment area on the day of treatment.
If you have a history of cold sores and and you are planning to have your upper lip hairs or chin hairs treated you will need to inform your treating physician so that you can be put on appropriate anti-viral therapy beforehand.
What does laser hair removal feel like?
Generally, there is a small amount of discomfort associated with laser hair removal. It feels like a rubber band snapping on the skin associated with the feeling of heat. Any discomfort is reduced by the contact cooling tip of the laser, but will increase with an increase in the size and density of the hair follicle, the darkness of the skin, and the laser energy used.
What are the risks of laser hair removal?
Sun avoidance is important after laser treatments, and sunscreen should be used on the treated area (if exposed to sunlight) on a daily basis. This is important to reduce pigmentation problems after the treatment (either gain or loss of pigmentation of the treated area).
Although uncommon, any blisters or scabs resulting from laser hair removal should not be scratched or picked at. This can result in permanent scarring (very rare) if these blisters or scabs become irritated or infected.
The skin may appear mildly red and swollen after treatment and aloe vera gel can also be used for any skin irritation from laser treatment.
Uncommonly, laser hair removal on the upper may also reactivate cold sores, and if this occurs you should inform your treating physician as soon as possible.
There is no relationship between laser hair removal and skin cancers. It is the ultraviolet (UV) spectrum that causes skin cancers and the laser wavelengths used for hair removal are not close to the UV spectrum.
How much does laser hair removal cost?
As an approximate guide, per session costs are listed below;
upper lip $99
upper lip and chin $132
between brows $99
full eyebrow shaping $165
back $440-$880
chest and abdomen $440
abdomen or chest only $275-$385
lower legs $440
full leg $880
full legs and bikini $990
bikini line $165
'snail trail' $165
brazillian $275-$330
underarms $165
forearms $330
ingrown hairs on neck $165-275
Full beard $440
Side burns $132
(all prices inclusive of GST)
Why should I choose The Victorian Cosmetic Institute as my provider of laser hair removal?
At The Victorian Cosmetic Institute, we use the latest laser technology to perform your treatment. Having four lasers to treat each skin and hair type, we can tailor your treatment, and also give you proper medical advice as to any underlying problems that may be causing your hair growth.
Our doctors are also highly experienced in laser treatments, and will be able to give you the best advice and treatment. If approrpriate, our doctors will also perform tests/investigations to exclude any hormonal cause of excess hair growth.
The first step is simply contacting us for your initial laser skin rejuvenation consultation, where we will discuss with you what is a realistic and achievable outcome, and what to expect from your laser treatment.
Making that first phone call about any cosmetic procedure can be a confronting task - many of our patients have preferred filling out our online enquiry form. We can then contact you with an understanding of the results you are hopeful of achieving and ensure the treatment is appropriate.
It's as easy as clicking either of the buttons below and completing the provided form. Otherwise, you can phone us directly on (03) 8850 0655 (Templestowe) or (03) 9707 0888 (Berwick).
