Retinoids
Topical retinoids, a derivative of Vitamin A, were first used in female
patients who were being treated for acne. These patients reported
smoother skin and less wrinkles after treatment, as well as having
fewer blemishes. A study followed that showed patients who used topical
retinoids demonstrated improvement in sunlight-induced epidermal
atrophy (skin thinning), dysplasia (abnormal skin changes), and
pigmentation. Overall, topical retinoids play a key role in reducing
sun damage, preventing and reducing wrinkles and controlling acne.
Retinoids work by increasing the natural turnover rate of the skin. Therefore there are less dead skin cells at the surface of the skin and less blockages as a result. This property of retinoids also means that skin texture and fine wrinkles also improve. The downside of retinoids is the initial response of the skin, or the retinoic dermatitis Skin can usually appear red, flaky, lumpy, and irritated for up to one month after commencement of retinoids. Starting slowly is important to reduce these side effects. Sunscreen is also imperative with the use of retinoids as they can initially exacerbate sun sensitivity. Retinoids should not be used in pregnant mothers, those planning to be pregnant, or those who are breast-feeding.
What forms do Retinoids come in?
Retinoids come in various forms. Retinoic acid, or tretinoin are examples of retinoids and include prescription-only variants such as Stieve-A, and Retin-A. Retinols are another form of retinoids.
Cosmedix also has a range of retinols of varying strength (Define, Refine, Refine Rx). Although more expensive than their prescription-only variants, they have the added property of being chirally correct Each molecule has a left and a right-sided version, like a pair of hands. In the case of retinols, the left sided version is more active and less irritating to the skin. Cosmedix has more of the left sided version of the molecule and is therefore chirally correct
Instructions when using topical reinols
The following instructions should be followed when using topical retinols;
• Apply to dry skin
• Do not apply to the skin in the eye socket (ie. Do not apply to areas where you canNn feel the bone surrounding your eyeball)
• Apply only a pea-sized amount
• Apply at night only
• Apply every third night to begin with
• After two weeks, apply every second night
• After another 2 weeks, apply every night.
If you experience any redness or irritation, it is necessary to reduce the frequency of your topical retinoid usage. Once the irritation has reduced, return to gradually increasing the frequency of retinoid use until it is tolerated. If necessary, also reduce the usage of alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) products like Defy in order to increase your retinoid frequency. It is possible to burn your skin with excessive usage so you must carefully monitor your skin at all times when using topical retinoids. As your skin gets accustomed to the retinols, you may progress to the next strength. Flakiness is normal and you should persist with usage if this occurs.
Retinoids should be ceased if you are planning on pregnancy or if pregnant or breast-feeding. Although the topical absorption has not proven to be significant, it is prudent to avoid retinoids during the term of your pregnancy/lactation.
Overall, retinoids are a very important topical agent that can help acne, but also those who do not have acne who want to improve skin quality and texture.
As topical retinoids in any significant concentration are prescription only, you will need to see one of our doctors for to determine if you are a suitable candidate for treatment with topical retinoids. We will discuss
with you what is a realistic and achievable outcome, and what to expect
from your treatment. Making that first phone call about any cosmetic
procedure can be a confronting task - many of our patients have
preferred filling out our online enquiry form (click below). We can then contact you
and gain an understanding of the results you are hopeful of achieving
and ensure the treatment is appropriate. as easy as clicking either of
the buttons below and completing the provided form.
Otherwise, you can phone us directly on (03) 8850 0655 (Templestowe) or (03) 9707 0888 (Berwick) to make an appointment.
